nedjelja, 13. srpnja 2008.

petak, 11. srpnja 2008.

VELEBIT - MOUNTAIN OF THE GODS... /VELEBIT - PLANINA BOGOVA ...

7 Free Lessons from the Teachers of The Secret

...it is late springtime on Velebit mountain, everything is in blossom, colours, fragrances. Life is flourishing in the rocks in perfect harmony. Wild, passionate, primordial, untamed, freely. When you enter in this beautiful world of nature, with your hearth open, you feel like in the most beautiful dreams, like in a fairy tale...


...kasno proljeće na Velebitu, sve je u cvatu, bojama, mirisima. Život buja u kamenu, spaja se s kršem u savršenu harmoniju. Divlje, strastveno, iskonski, neukroćeno, slobodno. Kad uđemo u taj prekrasan svijet prirode otvorenog srca, osjećamo se kao u najljepšim snovima, kao u bajci...















These photos are taken on the south Velebit, 17.05.2008, mostly on the plateau Rujno,which is 900m high. More in the post:Lutanja Velebitom...

Fotografije su snimljene na južnom Velebitu, 17.05.2008, većinom na visoravni Rujno, na 900m visine. Cijeli putopis u postu:Lutanja Velebitom: od Starigrada preko Velikog i Malog Rujna do Tribnja Šibuljine.



Summer vacation in Croatia

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subota, 5. srpnja 2008.

LUTANJA VELEBITOM: od Starigrada preko Velikog i Malog Rujna do Tribnja Šibuljine / WANDERINGS ON VELEBIT MOUNTAIN: Starigrad-Rujno-Tribanj

Svoj prvi post počinjem pisati u kasni noćni sat, dok moj dragi prebire po žicama gitare. Za inspiraciju odlično.
Naš zajednički planinarski izlet na južni Velebit, bio je 17.svibnja ove godine. Dan ranije doputovali smo iz Zadra u Starigrad, gdje smo odsjeli u udobnom apartmanu (Apartmani "Mira", svi komplimenti brižnim, ljubaznim i divnim domaćinima).












U planinu krećemo prije 8 ujutro. Namjeravamo doći do crkve na Velikom Rujnu na Velebitu, obići ga, možda i proći Malim Rujnom, pa natrag. Najteži dio puta, do vrha Veliki Vaganac(650 m), autom nas vozi ljubazni vlasnik apartmana u kojem smo odsjeli. Pokazuje nam nekolicinu napuštenih sela uz put, iz kojih su ljudi postepeno odlazili u puno lakši život uz obalu. Od Velikog Vaganca nastavljamo pješke.
















... doslovce ostajem bez daha, začarana neopisivom ljepotom prirode, veličanstvenom snagom kreacije koja izvire iz svakog kamena, iz svakog dijela krševitog krajolika čije su skulpture toliko moćne u svojoj raznolikosti...



Nakon sat-dva ugodnog, lijenog hoda po laganom makadamskom putu, napokon stižemo do izazovnog dijela: kozja staza kojom se penje do Rujna.
A onda uspon...i igra adrenalina i spretnosti nogu, naši tabani navikli na asfalt i meke planinske staze, počinju uživati u usponu po neravnim bridovima oštrih kamenih stepenica. Mudro propuštamo nekolicinu iskusnijih penjača, i sami sebi određujemo ritam i tempo, po principu "polako ali sigurno". Zastajemo da bismo fotografirali (dobar izgovor, jer kad god se netko od nas previše uspuše, krene priča o nužnosti fotografiranja),ustvari zastajemo da bismo odmorili noge i pluća...





...divno je sjediti u tišini i promatrati more koje se svjetluca u daljini i mami svojim sjajem.Cvrkut ptica i zujanje pčela. Zrak je miomirisan...


Naš uspon do Rujna traje i više od sat vremena. Na sreću, oblačno je, tako da je lakše penjati se. Slike koje nam je priroda nesebično ponudila izmjenjuju se svakim korakom, iz trenutka u trenutak shvaćamo da se nalazimo u drugom svijetu, poznatom iz najdražih bajki, poznatom iz najljepših snova, potpuno smo sami, u svijetu iskonske magije prirode...

















Na Velebitu svaki kamen treperi puninom života, priroda je pred nas stavila beskonačan izbor boja, linija, oblika, uklesala svojim pismom vremena najljepša djela s kojima se ljudska ruka ne može mjeriti...
















Pleter kamena i proljetnih biljaka očarava. Stalno osjećam prisustvo malih vila i vilenjaka, zrak i zemlja tako toplo mirišu...











Stižemo i do kapelice sv.Gospe, podignute na planinskoj stazi, još samo malo, pa eto Rujna. Kiša nas požuruje prema malom zaključanom planinarskom skloništu, ispred kojeg jedemo, i naravno, treba se malo i odmoriti. Kozje staze su divno naporne.

Dok sjedimo i odmaramo, shvaćamo da smo propustili misu u crkvi na V.Rujnu, no nemamo vremena previše žaliti: duh prirode je ovdje toliko intenzivan i svečan, da svaki korak i svaki pogled postaje obred radosti, života i ljubavi. Ovdje je toliko lako biti sretan i slobodan.

Nakon još malo hoda, stižemo do prijevoja ispod kojeg se prostire visoravan Veliko Rujno. Veliko i Malo Rujno su najprostranije visoravni na Velebitu, na visini od 900 m, dugačke nekoliko kilometara.
Odnedavno su se stanovnici počeli vraćati u Veliko Rujno, većinom samo preko vikenda.






























Iako su ljudi koje srećemo u Velikom Rujnu divno ljubazni i nenametljivo susretljivi, brzo odlazimo dalje, put Malog Rujna, željni što prije biti potpuno sami u našoj velebitskoj bajci.











Veselo trčimo po mekim stazama ovih čarobnih visoravni, okruženih moćnim divljim brdima. Vjetar tiho šušti u lišću i travi, sunce se igra skrivača s oblacima, zrak opojno miriše u ovaj sve topliji proljetni dan. Ljepota krajolika je neopisiva...dirljiva.


Nema tih riječi kojima bi se mogla predočiti čarolija u kojoj se krećemo. To treba osobno doživjetiti, i to iskustvo se nikad ne zaboravlja. U Velebit se čovjek jednostavno zaljubljuje i zavoli ga zauvijek..











Svaki napor, svaka kap znoja, umor, sve nestaje u valovima čiste radosti. Osjećam da nas ovaj kamen i nebo ponovno oblikuju... to nas majka priroda opet prihvaća u svoje naručje. Poklanja nam snagu i predivni osjećaj slobode.


Na kraju Malog Rujna, putevi se račvaju prema Stapu i prema planinarskom domu Zavrata. Još uvijek nismo spremni vratiti se u Starigrad, pa se odlučujemo pogledati dotični planinarski dom. Nije daleko, kaže markacija, tek 20 min. Hm...tih 20 min uzimamo s velikom rezervom, jer staze su markirane prema brzini trkača po brdima, a ne prema planinarima koji uživaju u svom razgledavanju. Nakon cca 50 min, spuštajući se kroz prekrasne bjelogorične šumarke, prolazeći kroz livadice i grmljem zarasle staze, stižemo do Zavrate na 700 m visine. Tu odlučujemo ne vraćati se u Starigrad, iskreno, ne da nam se ponovno uspinjati,do Malog Rujna, prevruće je. Nizbrdo je, valjda, lakše, a Tribanj Šibuljina ne bi trebao biti tako daleko, kaže karta Velebita, a i more se već vidi i naizgled je blizu, kažem ja.










Nakon kratkog odmora na Zavrati, nastavljamo kozjom stazom oštro nizbrdo, prema Šibuljini. Ovo se ispostavlja daleko težim izborom, jer naš "kratak" put traje 4 sata. Treba neprekidno držati fokus i punu koncentraciju na kamenitu stazu, gležnjevi i koljena moraju izdržati do podnožja, a moramo stići prije mraka, pa se odmaramo tek kad umorne noge počinju promašivati slijedeći kamen. Tada obavezno treba stati, povratiti energiju i vratiti se u stanje veselja i mirnog uma. Put prelazimo uz puno smijeha, jer se jedino tako isplati suočiti s teškoćom koju smo sami izabrali.











Vruće nam je, fizički smo već preumorni nakon cjelodnevne skitnje, ali ne damo se. Osobno bih najradije legla na neku stijenu na stazi i odspavala do jutra... Ustvari, neko vrijeme samo o tome razmišljam...

Zadnjih 100 visinskih metara nam je najteže: iznad Šibuljine počinju ovčje staze, usitnjeno oštro kamenje, možda je tako lakše ići uzbrdo, ali naše tabane to boli više od bilo koje kozje staze kojom smo prošli. Čini nam se da tim ovčjim putevima nema kraja, i da ćemo ubrzo početi meketati.


U Tribanj Šibuljinu ulazimo poslije 8 navečer, sretni i potpuno iscrpljeni, uz međusobne čestitke na izdržljivosti i snazi duha i pohvale međusobnoj podršci u svim izazovnim momentima. Spustili smo se točno 10 km sjeverozapadno od Starigrada.


Jedino što nam sad hitno treba je cappuccino i voda. I nužno presvlačenje. Konobarica u kafiću u Tribnju zaključuje da se po našem izgledu i živahnom ponašanju ne vidi da smo cijeli dan hodali po Velebitu...




Vlasnik apartmana dolazi po nas autom, a dok se vozimo natrag u Starigrad, već razmišljamo kad ćemo ponovno na najljepšu planinu na svijetu.

I like to hike, since my younger age. I am not a member of any hiking group, nor I am perfectly physically trained, but whenever I set up some top or mountain area as my goal, some force just dragg me there. Short time later, I just find myself swetting on some hill or path, where I wanted to be, completely content and my every atom feels fullfilled and blissfull.
Our hiking adventure to south Velebit was on 17.th of May 2008.
VELEBIT is the most beautiful mountain in Croatia. Wild, rocky, big, enchanting, mythical. It stretches above the sea, so hiking is special experience, because you can look at the crystal Adriatic sea, charming islands (which use to be part of this mountain) and deep blue sky everywhere around. (Velebit is 145 km long, 15-30km width). Here is very peacefull, Velebit kept its wilderness and innocence.
There is a road (not many roads on this mountain!) from the little town Starigrad (middle Adriatic coast) up to top Veliki Vaganac, 650m. Our hiking tour starts from that point. Our goal was- to reach the biggest valley on Velebit called Rujno.
There are many empty villages on Velebit, before few decades hundreds of people use to live there, but life deep in the wild mountain was very difficult. So, they left their villages, and moved down to the coast,where was easier to live.
As soon as we start to walk, and look around, our conciousness beginns to change. Primordial, breathtaking beauty of the nature, magnificent forces of creation are pouring out from every rock and stone , from every rocky sculpture. Imagination and creativity of nature is just endlessness.
After more then one hour lasy walking on the reasonable comfortable mountain path , our adventure can really begin: goat path which leads to the biggest valley on Velebit ( Rujno) is just beginning...Immediately we feel adrenalin in our bodies which pushes us up, our feet (used to concrete and soft mountain paths) start to enjoy non-flat edges of rocky path...Wisely decide to let forward some more experienced hikers and go slowly but safely.
We take breaks every now and one to take photos (what is good excuse, for taking rest. The path is very asloap). We need a lot of rest for our legs and lungs...that is ok, what can be better then just sit and take a look at the blue shining see in the distance... The air is full of fragrances. Here you can hear only birds and bees.

Everything is in blossom, colours, in perfect harmony. Wild, passionate, primordial, untamed, freely. When you enter in this beautiful world of nature, with your hearth open, you feel like in the most beautiful dreams, like in a fairy tale...
You can hear fairies whispering and touching you tenderly. Devas and angels of nature are everywhere, carriyng beautiful fragrances and pure light of love. There is nothing here but unconditional love and creative force and enchanting beauty, far beyond of anything what we humans can create in our civilisation.
Spirit of nature is so intensive and innocent here, that every our step and sight becomes sacred act of happiness, life and love. Here is so easy to feel free and joyfull...
After a while, we pass near the little chappel of holy Mary, which is built on the goat path. Here we are silently praying in deep gratitude for this experience and all love and abundance in our lives.
Little drops of warm rain make us walk more quickly. We take a short rest in the front of locked shelter, where we eat, and now is just a little bit, and there is Veliko Rujno (Big Rujno), beautifull big valley right bellow the crok. Big and Small Rujno are the largest and most gorgeous valleys on the whole Velebit. 7 km long and between 1 -2,5km large (900m height) they are situated on the seaboard terrace of Velebit, and completely protected from all sides with sorrunding mountains and hills...
40 years ago in Rujno use to live hundreds of people, growing cattle, but they started to lieve it, because of difficult conditions of life up here and new employment possibilities in tourism. Now there are some people staying in houses which are still there, but for weekend leisure only.
In the middle of Veliko Rujno valley is church dedicated to holly Mary, there is holy communion on Saturdays at 11. Next to the church is also a well, you can take water there.
Altough people who are in Rujno are very nice and polite, we are passing through Big Rujno very quickly - we just want to be completely alone with the nature in our Velebit`s fairy tale.
We are running around like children, enjoying soft grassy paths. Wind is whispering songs playing with leaves and flowers, air is full of sweet fragrances... There is no words to to describe this paradise, this miracoulous world where we walk. It is so easy and natural to fall in love in Velebit, and stay in love with this mountain forever. That is light of our souls which created this sparkly, dreamy world, in its pure innocence.

Every effort we made, every drop of sweat, tiredness... everything negative just disapeares in waves of pure happiness. I feel that these rocks and sky are transforming us and shaping us again.... Mother of nature is hugging us and taking back in her lap. She is giving us gift of strength and precious feeling of freedom..
In this peace and innocence, energy is so strong that I just know that ancient gods of Velebit are still alive...
On the end of Small Rujno, paths are leading to the beautiful valley Stap on the right side, and to the shelter on Zavrata. We are not ready to return to Starigrad yet, so we decide to see what is this shelter like. After 50 min, walking down through beautiful woods, lovely madows, and rocky paths, we are on Zavrata, 720m. We decide not to return to Starigrad, because it is to hot for hiking up. Decide to go down, thinking that is easier way. On the map it does not look so far to go to the coast. After short brake on Zavrata, we go down over ruggdness goat path, towards Tribanj Šibuljina, placed 10km NW from Starigrad. this is much more difficult choice, because our "quicker" way back takes 4 hours of walking. We are a bit in a hurry, couse we want to come down before the darkness, so we take rest only when tired feet start to miss next rock. It is neccessary to keep focus all the time, and stay fully concentrated. We joke every now and on, and laughing gives us such a relief.
It is hot, we are already too tired, I would just like to lay down on first flat rock and fall asleep till the morning.
Last 100 m of height (cca 2-3km,) becomes the heaviest part: sheep´s paths, full of little sharp stones, are very painful for walking down, more difficult then any goat path we walked. It seems that there is no end to this sheep path, and we just start to feel like sheeps, beee-beee....
After 8.p.m we finally reach Tribanj Šibuljina, completely exhausted, but feeling a litlle bit like heroes, and very happy.
In my mind there is nothing but big gratitude to the divine spirit and all divine beeings who guided us on our pilgrimage to the heart of Mother of nature, on wild, sacred mountain Velebit.







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